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How to Make a Gaffi Stick

Our son’s love for Tusken Raiders started thanks to The Book of Boba Fett. He didn't see Episode 1, 2 or 3 prior to that... 😬 Jovi was absolutely obsessed with Tusken Raiders... so much so that he wanted an entire costume, by Halloween (he ended up being a ghost by the way 🤦🏼‍♀️) so the race was on to assemble a child size Tusken Raider costume complete with the full helmet, and of course, the Gaffi Stick. If your kid happens to like Tusken Raiders too, this is how you can make a Gaffi Stick.

by Ryan Kolb

This is truly where my wife wanted me to begin the blog of our Star Wars journey. Back when I was researching Tusken Raider masks, I found digital downloads for, and pre-made buildable, gaffi sticks. In either event, it did not make sense to 3D print, then build/finish a gaffi, nor purchase a pre-made buildable gaffi and (still have to) finish it myself. So I set out on building one on my (son’s) own from things I could get easily: PVC piping, spray paint, caulk, massage roller ball, bicycle handlebar grips, basters (yes, as in food basters), and wallpaper smoothers. If you are not aware of what a gaffi is, I would compare it to a mace.

I started with the stick itself, being this is for a child, I thought PVC piping would work great, it is light, durable, and cheap. I had an initial idea of using a 3/4" x 2’ pipe with a reducer coupling to 1/2" x 2’ pipe and then adding a 90 degree curved PVC conduit pipe. I purchased those parts, plus a few 3/4" coupling; however, I could not easily find the right reducer. The gaffi has couplings between sections like the spear or grips.

I started painting and after experimenting with the 3/4", I realized the stick would be very long with the two straight pipes, curved pipe, and spear attachment. Granted, I could have done some cutting, but that became unnecessary after the realization. Therefore, I decided on using only the curved pipe and the 1/2" x 2’ pipe, in conjunction with the spear. I stayed with the 3/4" couplings I had already purchased. Basically because I was lazy and didn’t want to go back out and get 1/2" spacers/couplings.

Here is a cut of Boba Fett building his gaffi in The Book of Boba Fett. Since I made the mistake of not fully documenting my building process (despite making several points of note in my head for the need to document), this might help give visual to my process.

Parts (explanation):


  • Hacksaw

  • Caulk gun

  • Super glue

  • 3/4" hole cutter (drill bit)

  • Utility knife/box cutter

  • Super glue

  • Duct tape

Gaffi Stick, Creating and Finalizing:

Once I had all my materials, and tested results, I began to build with intent.

Step by Step:

  1. Using the hacksaw, cut the wallpaper smoothers (approximately 3” along the top edge and approximately 4” at the widest surface width).

  2. I used the blunted smoothed handle portion so that the “blade” edges were flat; this is the top edge.

  3. I also sanded the cut edges

  4. Using the hacksaw, cut plastic cap off one side of the massage roller

  5. Cut as close to the cap as possible and on a straight edge; further down you will be replacing the cap

  6. If possible, remove the remaining portion of the cap tubing from inside of the hollow massage roller tube (not necessary)

  7. Here is where I am glad I bought two basters. The inside of the roller has a ~2” hollow tube. The bulb end of the baster fit perfectly in the tube of the roller. The curved PVC pipe then fit snugly in the baster end, creating a great connection between the massage roller and PVC curved pipe

  8. Place super glue on the bulb (closed) end of one baster bulb and secure inside of the roller

  9. The open connection end should be facing out inside of the open/cut end of the roller

  10. Cut the second baster bulb along the ribbed/raised edge where the bulb begins to taper

  11. Using the product I bought, you can see a solid raised line around the bulb, near the top, this is the edge I cut along.

  12. The two pieces should give you a small dome shaped part and a tapered cone with openings on either end

  13. Super glue the dome shaped baster part to the massage roller, to the exterior cap, so that the piece is convex appearing

  14. Super glue the remaining cut baster bulb piece (open ended cone) to the top of the baster dome

  15. The edge you cut along should fit snugly over the dome

  16. Using the hole cutter, drill the 3/4" hole in the loose massage roller end cap

  17. Slide 90 degree curved PVC pipe through loose end cap

  18. One end of the pipe has a built-in coupler, this end should remain outside of the massage roller

  19. Super glue end of curved PVC to baster bulb inside of massage roller

  20. Super glue end cap back to massage roller

  21. Caulk (clear or brown) the seam where the massage roller end cap meets the PVC

  22. Either color is fine as it will be painted later

  23. Slide baster tube onto one end of straight PVC pipe

  24. It will naturally stop due to the taper of the baster tube

  25. Note/mark where the baster tube overlaps the PVC

  26. Consider only the overlap after the ribbed rings near the top of the baster tube

  27. Cut the PVC, lengthwise, with three (3) evenly spaced cuts

  28. Do not cut lower than the mark for the baster’s ribbed rings

  29. Width of cuts to match the thickness of the bottom of the wallpaper smoother/blades

  30. Slide baster tube onto one end of straight PVC pipe where you made the cuts

  31. Mark the three cuts (from the PVC) on the baster tube

  32. Cut the baster where you marked the PVC cuts

  33. Length of cut should be same length as the bottom edge of cut wallpaper smoother

  34. May need to add length where overlap did not occur

  35. This allows the smoothers/”blades” to be notched inside of the baster

  36. Width of cuts to match the thickness of the bottom of the wallpaper smoother/blades

  37. Place wallpaper smoother blades into the baster tube

  38. This is a dry-test

  39. The notches should help keep in place

  40. Slide baster tube onto straight PVC pipe

  41. Ideally, the cuts will align with the recessed wallpaper smoother blades and “lock” into place

  42. Make adjustments if necessary

  43. Remove the baster tube and super glue edges of wallpaper smoother blades, returning the blades to their slots

  44. Super glue straight PVC pipe or baster tube opening, and slide baster tube onto PVC

  45. Caulk (clear) the baster tube end to the straight PVC pipe

  46. Personal choice, I placed a little caulk in the tip opening of the baster tube

  47. Cut one PVC coupling in “half”

  48. I made two cuts just slightly off center as there is a ribbed ring on the interior

  49. This was to remove the inner ring and keep the coupling balanced (for later placement)

  50. Spray paint silver:

  51. PVC straight piece

  52. Couplings

  53. Baster tube

  54. Wallpaper smoother “blades”

  55. Spray paint brown:

  56. Curved PVC pipe

  57. Massage roller

  58. Baster bulb

  59. After paint dries, connect curved PVC pipe to straight PVC pipe

  60. Connect on opposite end of the cuts

  61. Mark the straight pipe where the curved pipe ends

  62. My curved PVC did not have a “straight” or “flat” edge so I needed to mark the deepest part of the connection

  63. Slide one handlebar grip on the straight PVC pipe

  64. Slide to the middle

  65. Slide the uncut coupling onto straight PVC pipe

  66. This will go between handlebar grips, so slide on end where the PVC pipes will connect

  67. Slide second handlebar grip onto pipe

  68. Sandwiching the uncut coupling between grips

  69. Slide one cut coupling onto straight PVC pipe

  70. Onto the uncut end of the straight PVC pipe

  71. Where the PVC contact point is marked (at its deepest), wrap several layers of duct tape to straight PVC pipe

  72. Do not make tape width wider than the coupling

  73. Place super glue on duct tape and slide coupling into place

  74. Slide handlebar grip up to the affixed (glued) coupling

  75. Wrap several layers of duct tape for the middle (uncut) coupling

  76. The tape should abutt the handlebar grip which is “in place”

  77. Do not make tape width wider than the coupling

  78. Repeat Step 33 with the uncut coupling

  79. Repeat Step 34 with the second handlebar grip

  80. This should be the grip closest to the cut end of the straight PVC pipe

  81. Repeat Step 35 for the remaining cut coupling

  82. Do not make tape width wider than the coupling

  83. Repeat Step 33 for the remaining cut coupling

  84. Caulk (clear) the end coupling to the straight PVC shaft

  85. Super glue the curved PVC pipe to the straight PVC pipe

  86. Caulk (brown) the gap between the PVC connection point

  87. As previously mentioned, my curbed PVC did not have a “straight” or “flat” edge

  88. The caulk filled the gap between the coupling and the curved PVC pipe fitting

  89. Tape (cover) handlebars

  90. If needed, spray paint in appropriate colors the gaffi stick

  91. After touch-up paint dries, clear coat the entire gaffi stick to protect paint colors

  92. Remove tape from handlebars once clear coat dries

  93. Enjoy!

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